If your opener is misbehaving, the fault is almost always one of the patterns below. Start here before calling a technician — often you can rule out the small stuff yourself in under five minutes.
Door won't close all the way
Usually a safety-sensor issue at the bottom of the tracks — dust, cobwebs, or sun glare knocking them out of alignment. Wipe the lenses, make sure both little indicator lights glow steady, and try again. If it still won't close, the door itself may be binding on the tracks.
Door won't open
First check that the manual release cord hasn't been pulled — the trolley may be disconnected. If the opener hums but nothing moves, that usually points to a broken spring, which we don't recommend touching yourself. Give us a call and we'll take a look.
Door starts down, then reverses back up
This is the opener catching either a real obstruction or a false one. Check the tracks for anything sitting in the way, then look at the safety sensors down by the floor. If both are clear, the close-force setting may be dialed too low for the door's weight.
Opener beeps for no apparent reason
On battery-backup models, that's usually a low-battery warning or a periodic self-test. Check the battery status LED on the powerhead — if it's red or flashing, the internal battery is due for replacement.
Remote won't open the door
Start with a fresh battery in the remote — it's the most common cause and the easiest to rule out. If a new battery doesn't bring it back, re-pair the remote by holding the LEARN button on the powerhead until the indicator lights, then press your remote button once.
Wall control does nothing when pressed
Nine times out of ten this is a loose or nicked wire between the wall button and the powerhead. Pop the button off the wall, check that both wires are firmly seated in the terminals, and look for staples pinching the run anywhere along its path.
Opener hums but the door doesn't move
The motor is trying but something's stopping it — a broken torsion spring, a snapped cable, or the trolley disconnected from the rail. Broken springs are dangerous to work on; if you spot one, please leave the door alone and give us a call.
Remote works, but only up close
LED bulbs in the powerhead are usually the culprit — they can throw radio noise that shortens remote range. Swap for LED bulbs marketed as "garage door opener rated" and you'll usually get your driveway range back.
Opener has gotten noticeably louder
Noise almost always tells you where the wear is — a rattly chain wants tension, dry hinges want lube, and rollers grinding at the top of the tracks want replacement. A yearly tune-up catches these before they turn into a bigger repair.
Door moves noticeably slower than it used to
Two common causes: the door is out of balance (the opener is fighting the door's weight), or the trolley is dragging on a dry rail. Neither is expensive to fix, but ignoring it wears out the motor faster.
Door stops before it's fully closed
The close-limit setting or the close-force setting needs a small adjustment. Both are done on the back of the powerhead, and most models walk you through it with a few button presses. If you'd rather not touch it, we can dial it in during a service call.
Door stops before it's fully open
Same story in reverse — the open-limit is set short, or the door is heavy enough that the open-force cuts out before travel is complete. Balance first, then adjust the limit.
Safety sensors flashing or misaligned
The two sensors at the bottom of the tracks have to look each other in the eye for the door to close. A steady green light on the sender and a steady red light on the receiver means they're aligned. Flashing red means bumped, dusty, or facing the wrong way.