myQ Camera Not Working? Why the Video Won't Load

1. Take a phone up a ladder to the powerhead and check the signal there, with the garage door both open and closed. Note the difference.
2. Test on your home Wi-Fi and then on cellular data away from the house, since that tells you whether the bottleneck is at the camera or at your phone.
3. Check your internet plan's upload speed rather than the download figure that gets advertised. Video from the camera uses upload.
4. Move the router if it's in a cabinet, behind a television, or in a far corner. Height and open air both help more than people expect.
5. Add a mesh node in the garage or the nearest room to it. This is the fix that actually works, rather than the one that nearly works.
6. Restart the router, then power cycle the opener at the receptacle, and give both a few minutes to settle before testing again.

You’ll know it’s right when: Live view opens within a few seconds and holds steady for a minute or more, with the door both open and closed.

1. Check whether your router presents 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz under one network name. If so, look for a setting to split them, or to make the 2.4 GHz network separately visible.
2. Change the 2.4 GHz channel in your router settings. Channels 1, 6 and 11 don't overlap, and moving off a congested one often helps immediately.
3. Look at what else lives near the opener or the router — a microwave, a cordless phone base, or a large metal appliance in the signal path.
4. Check for router features that interfere with device connections, such as client isolation, AP isolation, or aggressive band steering.
5. If the network name or password has changed at any point, reconnect the opener rather than assuming it followed the change.

You’ll know it’s right when: The opener stays online consistently over a day or two, and video holds without dropping.

1. Wipe the lens with a soft dry cloth. No solvents, which can haze the plastic permanently.
2. Check for spider webs across the housing, which are almost invisible on camera but scatter light badly.
3. Open live view on your phone while standing in the garage and look at what the camera can actually see. Move anything sitting in the frame.
4. Watch the view with the door open and closed. On some installations the open door panel takes up a large part of the frame.
5. For a night-time black image, check whether the infrared illumination is bouncing off something close to the lens, such as a shelf or the door itself when open. Moving the obstruction usually fixes it.

You’ll know it’s right when: The live image is clear, correctly framed, and usable both day and night.

1. Open the app's account or subscription section and look at what your current plan includes.
2. Check whether you're inside a trial period that has quietly ended, which is the most common version of this.
3. Confirm event recording is switched on for that camera in its settings, since it can be enabled on the plan and disabled on the device.
4. Check the storage or retention period, because clips older than the retention window are gone regardless of plan.
5. Decide whether recorded video is something you actually want before subscribing, rather than assuming it was meant to be included.

You’ll know it’s right when: You know exactly what your plan covers and whether the missing footage was ever going to be there.

1. Open your phone's settings for the app and confirm notifications are permitted, including the alert types you want.
2. Check local network permission is granted, which matters for streaming while you're on the same Wi-Fi as the opener.
3. Exclude the app from aggressive battery optimisation, which is a common cause of missing or badly delayed alerts.
4. Inside the app, check that alerts are enabled for that specific camera and that any quiet hours or schedules aren't covering the times you care about.
5. Sign out and back in, then update the app, since permission behavior changes between versions.
6. Try a different phone on the same account, which quickly separates a device problem from an account or hardware one.

You’ll know it’s right when: Alerts arrive promptly and video opens both at home and away.

1. Check the camera's settings in the app for a disabled state, a privacy mode, or a schedule that turns it off.
2. Confirm you're signed into the account that owns the device rather than a second account or a shared guest login.
3. If you've shared access from someone else's account, check what permissions that share includes, since camera access isn't always part of it.
4. For a newly purchased home, contact the previous owner or the builder and ask them to remove the device from their account.
5. Where that's not possible, follow the manufacturer's own process for transferring a device rather than a workaround from a forum.
6. After a transfer, expect to set the camera up from scratch, including its network connection.

You’ll know it’s right when: The camera appears on your account, under your control, with settings you can change.

1. Power cycle the opener at the receptacle for a full minute, which is more thorough than a soft restart in the app.
2. Check whether a firmware update is pending or stalled, since a partial update can leave the module in a poor state.
3. Note whether the failure correlates with temperature — working mornings and failing afternoons is a strong hint at heat rather than software.
4. Note whether it began at a storm, which points at a surge rather than gradual failure.
5. Try connecting it to a phone hotspot placed close to the opener, which removes your home network from the picture entirely.

You’ll know it’s right when: You've established whether the module can connect under ideal conditions, which is what separates hardware from network.